Cracked, moldy caulk isn't just ugly — around tubs and showers it's how water gets into walls, and around doors and windows it's how conditioned air leaks out all summer. Re-caulking is cheap prevention for expensive problems.
We strip old sealant completely (no caulk-over-caulk), treat any mildew, and lay clean new lines with the right product for each joint: mold-resistant silicone in wet areas, paintable elastomeric outside, backer rod in wide gaps.
We inspect wet areas, window and door perimeters, exterior penetrations and expansion joints, and rank what is cosmetic versus what is actively letting water or air through.
Failed sealant is removed completely to clean substrate, mildewed joints are treated and dried, and wide or deep gaps get backer rod so new sealant cures with the right profile.
Each joint gets the correct sealant — wet-area silicone, paintable exterior elastomeric, concrete-grade urethane — tooled into smooth, consistent lines that seal fully and look intentional.
We confirm cure times before showers or rain, note anything to keep dry and for how long, and flag upstream issues like grading or fan usage worth addressing.
Watch the joint where brick meets frame around your garage and windows — as Fulshear homes ride seasonal clay movement, those expansion joints open into gaps that invite wind-driven rain and pests. We reseal them with flexible exterior sealant sized for movement. One thing we never caulk: the weep holes at the bottom of brick walls, which must stay open to drain the wall cavity — a common DIY mistake we regularly undo.
Caulking work in Fulshear is priced by linear footage, joint condition and access. Stripping old failed sealant takes most of the time — a neglected shower with layered old caulk costs more to redo than a maintained one. Exterior work on second-story windows adds ladder time. Wide gaps needing backer rod use more material and slower technique. Specialty sealants for stone, concrete and wet areas price differently. A whole-home sealing pass, inside and out in one visit, is the most efficient way to buy this work.
Every 3–5 years typically, sooner if you see cracking or dark spots. Our mold-resistant silicone with proper prep lasts at the top of that range.
Sealing gaps around doors, windows and penetrations measurably cuts air leakage — the Department of Energy estimates up to 10–20% savings on heating and cooling for well-sealed homes.
We remove the caulk itself — surface cleaning doesn't fix mildew rooted in the sealant. Old bead out, joint treated and dried, new bead in.
Yes — those are weep holes, and they drain moisture out of the wall cavity behind the brick. Sealing them traps water inside the wall. If pests are entering through them, we install stainless weep covers that block insects while preserving drainage, instead of caulking them shut.
The usual suspects we find: attic hatch perimeters, gaps behind exterior outlet covers, the door to the garage, plumbing penetrations under sinks, and dried-out door weatherstripping. Sealing that short list is a half-day of work and addresses the leaks you can feel on a hot afternoon.
Call or text a photo of the job — upfront quote today, most work scheduled within days.
Call (281) 595-9807 Text a Photo